Cartier continues to evolve its most historic pilot’s watch with two striking new references for 2025: one crafted entirely from bead-blasted titanium, the other featuring a black luminous dial — both proof that the Santos de Cartier remains as relevant today as it was in 1904. The Maison once again balances function and refinement, updating its century-old design language without sacrificing its soul.
The spirit of Santos-Dumont lives on
When Louis Cartier created the original Santos for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the goal was simple yet revolutionary — to craft a timepiece that could be worn during flight. The resulting square case with exposed screws became one of the first true men’s wristwatches and an enduring icon of industrial elegance. Over the decades, Cartier has managed to evolve this concept subtly, preserving its design DNA while introducing fresh materials and modern ergonomics.
As Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s Image, Style and Heritage Director, explains, the strength of the Santos lies in its capacity to evolve. These two 2025 novelties lean into that philosophy with distinct interpretations of contrast: lightness versus depth, matte versus polish, and tradition versus technical expression.
A new material chapter: the bead-blasted titanium Santos
The headline novelty is undoubtedly the Santos de Cartier Titanium LM (ref. CRWSSA0089), featuring a fully bead-blasted finish — a texture rarely used by the maison. Its grade 5 titanium case is not only 43% lighter than steel but also significantly harder, resulting in a watch that feels both robust and refined. The anthracite tone, paired with a black spinel cabochon crown, enhances its understated aesthetic, marking a deliberate step away from Cartier’s usual polished surfaces.
At 39.8 mm in diameter and only 9.38 mm thick, the titanium Santos retains the proportions of the large model while feeling noticeably lighter on the wrist. Inside beats the in-house Caliber 1847 MC, an automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve, magnetic protection via nickel-phosphorus components, and a soft-iron inner shield — a technical setup emphasizing reliability over exhibitionism. And of course, Cartier’s QuickSwitch strap system and SmartLink bracelet adjustment make the ownership experience as refined as the design itself.
Light in the dark: the first luminous Santos dial
Running parallel to the titanium release is the Santos de Cartier Black Dial LM (ref. CRWSSA0096), which introduces Super-LumiNova to the Santos family for the first time. Its dial combines two distinct finishes: a vertical satin texture within the minute track and a sunburst finish around the periphery, creating subtle visual layering. The white Roman numerals, hands, and minute track are coated with green-glowing lume, giving the watch a bold nocturnal character while maintaining the elegance expected from Cartier.
This is not mere functionality for the sake of it — it’s Cartier experimenting with contrast. The fluorescent glow enhances legibility but also adds a sportier tension to the otherwise classical architecture of the Santos. It’s an evolution purists didn’t necessarily expect, but one that makes sense for the brand’s most “active” design.
A tale of two contrasts
Both watches share a design language built around contradiction — matte versus gloss, tool-like utility versus fine jewelry-level execution. The titanium model feels deliberately industrial, perhaps the most “modern” Santos yet, while the black luminous version pushes the line into unexpected territory. Cartier has long excelled at making opposites coexist, and these new releases are a study in how the brand can stretch its vocabulary without breaking it.
Importantly, these novelties are offered only in the large 39.8 mm case for now, with 100-meter water resistance and the interchangeable strap system. It wouldn’t be surprising, however, if Cartier later extends both concepts to the medium size, as it did with past Santos evolutions.
Pricing, availability, and a quiet sense of progress
The titanium Santos de Cartier retails for $11,500 USD, available from November 1st, 2025, while the black luminous dial version in steel is priced at $8,650 USD, available starting October 7th, 2025. Neither is a limited edition, but both feel like thoughtful refinements that collectors will appreciate for their tactile and visual innovation.
Cartier isn’t chasing trends here — it’s refining its own legend. In a world that often confuses novelty with noise, the maison shows once again that true modernity can come in a matte finish… or a gentle green glow. And did you know that one of the 5 most iconic watches of all time was a Cartier ?
