There’s a quiet confidence about Serica that sets it apart in today’s crowded field of independent watch brands. With its minimalist designs, historic inspiration, and robust build quality, Serica doesn’t shout for attention — it earns it through substance. For collectors and enthusiasts tired of overdesigned, overpriced pieces, Serica is a breath of fresh, disciplined air. This is a brand – from France – that deserves not just a glance, but a closer look.
From Paris with Purpose
Founded in 2019, Serica emerged from the mind of Jérôme Burgert, a French watch enthusiast with deep ties to the collector community. The brand was born not as a marketing exercise, but as a response to a genuine frustration: the lack of accessible, thoughtfully designed tool watches that marry heritage with functionality. The name “Serica” itself harks back to the Silk Road — a nod to exploration and timeless elegance.
Despite its relatively young age, the brand’s identity is remarkably mature. It draws from 20th-century military and field watch aesthetics, particularly British and American designs of the 1940s and 1950s, but reinterprets them with a uniquely French sense of restraint. Produced in Switzerland, every Serica watch is an exercise in balancing vintage charm with modern reliability, making it a quiet leader in the neo-vintage segment.
Under the Hood: A Technical Approach Rooted in Purpose
Serica’s approach to mechanics is as deliberate as its design language. The watches often feature manual or automatic movements sourced from top-tier Swiss suppliers, including chronometer-certified calibres like the Soprod M100 and COSC-grade Newton calibres. This attention to chronometry isn’t just a spec-sheet flex — it’s part of the brand’s philosophy that a watch should be as precise as it is beautiful.
Cases are made from 316L stainless steel, shaped with crisp, ergonomic lines and often finished with radial brushing or polished bevels for a subtle play of light. Serica is also notable for its crown choices — fully screw-down, unguarded crowns that recall classic dive and field watches, paired with 200m of water resistance across multiple models.
Perhaps most distinctive is the brand’s use of unique, in-house dial designs and fixed lugs, reinforcing its dedication to durability and identity. Whether it’s the broad arrow hands or the famous “Commando” dial, every element is created to serve both form and function. The absence of date windows on most models is no accident — it’s a design decision rooted in legibility and purity.
Design That Speaks Softly but Stays With You
Serica watches look deceptively simple at first glance — but that’s exactly their strength. The signature dial symmetry, deep matte textures, and bold yet compact proportions (often around 37 to 39mm) make them incredibly wearable. On the wrist, these watches feel tactile, purposeful, and unpretentious, as comfortable under a linen shirt as they are under a parka sleeve.
The design codes evoke early explorers, military tools, and a love for quiet craftsmanship. Fixed lugs and supplied NATO straps reinforce the rugged feel, while offering room for personalisation. This is a watch for someone who values the understated — the collector who wants an everyday watch that isn’t trying to be everything at once.
The most popular models — like the Serica 5303 dive watch or the Serica 4512 field watch — have developed a cult following, not just in France but globally. Their charm lies in that difficult-to-nail fusion of soul and specification, bridging continents and decades in a single object. The recent launch of the Parade, a line of more refined, dress-oriented watches, shows that the brand can explore elegance without abandoning its core identity — proof that Serica’s DNA is strong enough to evolve without compromise.
A Personal Reflection: Why Serica Matters
In a world of constant novelty and limited editions, Serica plays the long game. It’s a brand built on conviction rather than trends. There’s a humility in the way its pieces are developed, with long design cycles, real-world testing, and feedback from actual wearers. This ethos is more common in bespoke tailoring than in modern watchmaking — and it shows. To me, Serica represents a return to essentials. It tells the story of what a watch should be: a tool, a companion, and a reflection of the person wearing it. Without relying on celebrity ambassadors or flashy campaigns, Serica has carved a loyal base of collectors who care more about heritage and harmony than hype.
At around $1,200 to $2,200 USD, Serica watches are not inexpensive, but they punch far above their weight in terms of detail and durability. More importantly, they offer something that’s getting harder to find: authenticity. In the end, Serica isn’t trying to reinvent horology — it’s trying to refine it. And that, in today’s over-saturated market, is a revolutionary act in itself. On our end, we absolutely love what it’s doing and are seriously thinking of buying one…but we are still hesitating with one of Studio Underd0g’s more colorful pieces !
