The latest creation from Behrens and Konstantin Chaykin isn’t just another collaboration—it’s a wild card. The Ace of Hearts is a follow-up to their 2022 Joker-inspired piece, now reimagined in a sleek trapezoidal case, with a fully skeletonized, expressive “face” and a brand-new in-house movement. With prices starting at $7,500, it offers a bold combination of mechanical character and technical refinement at a surprisingly attainable price point.
Behrens and Chaykin: A match built on creativity
This watch marks three years of partnership between Behrens, the inventive Chinese independent brand, and Konstantin Chaykin, the Russian horological auteur best known for his Joker watches. Behrens brings its technical prowess and minimalist ultralight cases, while Chaykin infuses the design with his signature personality—a face, a grin, and a little theatrical flair.
The Ace of Hearts builds on Behrens’ Ultralight platform, known for its featherweight construction and asymmetrical design. But this version takes things further, transforming the watch into a stylized, animated card—with a skeletonized Joker’s face and a movement that appears to float inside the case.
A new caliber with a playful soul
Inside the 37mm-wide, 7.9mm-thick case beats the BM07, a brand-new in-house manual movement developed by Behrens. While modest in specs—46 hours of power reserve, 4Hz beat rate—it serves as the engine for an intricate and unconventional dial display.
Time is indicated via two “eyes” at the top of the dial: one for the hours, the other for the minutes, arranged in a regulator-style format. Between them, a small power reserve indicator sits on the bridge of the nose. But it’s the seconds hand that steals the show—it sweeps along an oval track, thanks to a visible snail cam mechanism, creating an offbeat rhythm that perfectly matches the Joker’s mischievous smile below.
The finishing on the movement is industrial yet thoughtful, with frosted surfaces, brushed outlines, polished bevels, and high-polish screws. While most decoration is machine-applied, the overall execution is clean and deliberate.
A design that’s lightweight, wearable… and a little unsettling
The trapezoidal case may be unusual, but it’s not without logic. Derived from the Ultralight, the shape optimizes weight distribution and movement layout, while enhancing the visual tension of the skeletonized Joker motif. The openwork dial is color-matched to the case and paired with a fluororubber strap in the same tone, secured by a titanium pin buckle.
Depending on your taste, the Ace of Hearts is available in grade 5 titanium (600 pieces), SPSCF composite in black or white (150 pieces each), or synthetic sapphire in blue (80 pieces) or pink (20 pieces). Despite its dramatic aesthetic and semi-transparent construction, the watch remains water-resistant to 50 meters, adding a touch of practicality to an otherwise theatrical piece.
This isn’t a tool watch—it’s a statement piece, ideal for collectors drawn to whimsical independent design, avant-garde aesthetics, and watches that spark conversation.
Final thoughts: Joker face, serious value
With the Ace of Hearts, Behrens and Chaykin deliver a piece that’s both delightfully eccentric and mechanically compelling. The use of a new in-house movement, lightweight materials, and the sculptural design give it the feel of a much more expensive watch, while retaining the accessibility that defines Behrens’ appeal.
Pricing starts at $7,500 USD for the titanium version, climbs to $9,200 USD for SPSCF composite, and reaches $13,600 USD for the rare sapphire editions. Availability is limited across all variants, making this one of the most distinctive independent releases of the year.
Because sometimes, all it takes to love a watch is a smile looking back at you. Which reminds us of another watchmaker offering insane timepieces, Fam Al Hut, especially with its Bi-Axis Tourbillon !
