Atelier Wen has just lifted the curtain on its most ambitious creation yet: the Ancestra Jiāo, a watch that marries French horological refinement with the depth of Chinese artistic traditions. With its hand-hammered silver dial cloaked in a deep Grand Feu enamel gradient, a French movement bearing Chinese poetry, and a case sculpted in 904L steel, this watch feels less like a debut and more like a manifesto.
Atelier Wen: Rewriting the story of Chinese watchmaking
Since its creation in 2018, Atelier Wen has pursued a unique mission—to reclaim Chinese identity in watchmaking. Founded by two young visionaries, one French and one Chinese, the brand rejects stereotypes and outsourcing, focusing instead on local excellence, cultural storytelling, and a sharp design language. The Perception marked a turning point with its in-house guilloché and micro-rotor movement. Now, the Ancestra line pushes even further into the realm of haute horlogerie.
This first chapter, named Jiāo (蛟), evokes the mythical Chinese water dragon—powerful, elusive, and ethereal. Much like the creature, the watch dances between contrasts: East and West, raw and refined, heritage and modernity.
A technical achievement rooted in craft
The Ancestra Jiāo is built around a 38mm case in 904L stainless steel, a rare material in independent watchmaking known for its lustrous sheen and corrosion resistance. It features a detached lug construction, sculpted with a blend of brushing and mirror-polished bevels. The concave polished bezel softens the dial edge while enhancing depth. Measuring 11.3mm thick and 46mm lug-to-lug, the proportions strike an elegant balance between presence and wearability. Both front and back feature sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coatings, and the screw-down crown bears a traditional Chinese border motif, helping to ensure 100 meters of water resistance.
The movement inside is a testament to Franco-Chinese collaboration: the EPM03 calibre by Pequignet, a French manufacture known for its high-end calibres. Beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, this automatic engine features 65 hours of power reserve, a bi-directional Pellaton winding system, and a three-quarter bridge engraved with the ancient poem Questions to Heaven—a touch both literary and intimate. The 5N rose gold-coated tungsten rotor, skeletonised and finished with polished bevels, adds visual intrigue through the caseback.
A dial that tells stories in light and texture
The dial is where the Jiāo reaches its poetic climax. Hammered by hand, its base texture is full of irregular dimples, each unique to its piece. Over this relief, a Grand Feu enamel gradient flows from silver-white to cobalt-blue, capturing the mystery of ink wash painting and oceanic depth.
Instead of conventional numerals, Chinese calligraphy marks the hours, set alongside baguette-cut diamond markers that float like ice shards on a lake. The leaf-shaped hands, featuring a frosted spine and concave bevelled flanks, enhance legibility while embracing elegance. A delicate decorative border replaces the traditional minute track, grounding the piece in Chinese design codes without losing modern relevance.
This is a watch for aesthetes, collectors, and cultural enthusiasts—someone who values narrative just as much as technical execution. It isn’t built to impress at a glance; it’s crafted to be understood over time.
A refined collector’s piece, not for everyone
With the Ancestra Jiāo, Atelier Wen positions itself among the few indies daring to innovate with substance. It isn’t about novelty for its own sake—it’s about meaning. Everything is deliberate, from the calligraphic script to the poetic engravings, the tactile case, and the movement’s European heart.
Priced at $5,850 USD (excl. VAT), it’s a bold leap from the brand’s previous offerings—but one that’s entirely justified. Only available for pre-order during a 7-day window, this Launch Edition will be delivered in Q2 2026. No second run is planned. And if you are on a budget but are looking for a dress watch that looks like no one else’s, check out the fascinating Echo/Neutra Rivanera !
