Blancpain has just unveiled a new 38mm version of its Fifty Fathoms—arguably the most influential dive watch in history. This release doesn’t just shrink the dimensions; it opens the door to a broader audience seeking vintage charm, daily wearability, and proven dive pedigree in a more compact format.
Blancpain and the Fifty Fathoms: Where It All Began
Founded in 1735, Blancpain is the world’s oldest surviving watch brand, but it’s the 1953 launch of the Fifty Fathoms that cemented its place in horological history. Conceived for combat divers, the Fifty Fathoms was one of the very first true dive watches, featuring a unidirectional bezel, superior water resistance, and luminous markers long before such traits became industry standards.
Today, the Fifty Fathoms remains the flagship of Blancpain’s collection—a symbol of technical credibility and refined design. Over the years, the model has evolved in size and complexity, often hovering around 45mm. The return to 38mm, a nod to past iterations like the “Mil-Spec” models, reconnects the line to its roots while answering a growing demand for smaller, more versatile cases.
A Thoughtful Downsizing Without Compromise
The new Fifty Fathoms 38mm arrives with a stainless steel case, topped by a domed sapphire bezel insert that mimics vintage Bakelite while offering modern durability. With a thickness of 11.2mm and a lug-to-lug under 45mm, it’s a remarkably wearable piece, whether you’re diving or dressing smart-casual.
Inside beats the automatic Blancpain Caliber 1150, a date movement with twin barrels delivering 100 hours of power reserve. The use of a non-magnetic silicon balance spring ensures resilience in challenging environments, while the sapphire caseback reveals a finely finished movement—something rarely seen in professional divers.
Water-resistant to 300 meters, the Fifty Fathoms 38mm is more than just a tribute—it’s a (luxury) tool watch through and through, with contemporary specifications wrapped in a design faithful to its heritage.
Refined for Smaller Wrists and Discerning Tastes
Available in two colorways—black with a sunburst dial and blue with a radiant finish—this 38mm version offers a refined aesthetic without compromising on presence. The lack of date window enhances symmetry, while the bold, luminescent Arabic numerals and markers ensure excellent readability.
The reduced diameter makes it an ideal companion for those with smaller wrists, or simply for collectors and enthusiasts who lean toward vintage-inspired proportions. While undeniably sporty, the polished details and heritage cues make it equally at home paired with a linen shirt on a summer evening as with a wetsuit. This is a watch for those who appreciate legacy, craftsmanship, and understated confidence.
Our Take: A Welcome Return to Human Proportions
With the Fifty Fathoms 38mm, Blancpain delivers a compelling answer to the market’s growing appetite for smaller divers. This is not a compromise—it’s a precision-crafted homage that combines modern movement technology with dimensions that feel timelessly right. Pricing is set at $16,700 USD up to $34,000 USD for the red gold version on a deployant clasp, with availability expected through Blancpain boutiques and selected retailers beginning this summer. While this isn’t a limited edition, demand is expected to be strong, especially among collectors who’ve been waiting for a more wearable Fifty Fathoms without sacrificing specs.
There’s something deeply satisfying about a watch that doesn’t shout but simply fits—on the wrist, in the moment, and in the lineage of great watchmaking. And this new Fifty Fathoms? It fits just right even tough the price will scare many watch lovers…and that’s exactly why Swatch came up with the Scuba Fifty Fathoms !
