In an industry that often looks to tradition, TAG Heuer has taken a bold step into the future. At the Geneva Watch Days 2025, the brand revealed the TH-Carbonspring, a carbon-based balance spring that promises improved resistance to magnetism, shocks, and wear. To introduce this innovation, TAG Heuer has chosen two limited-edition flagships: a Monaco Flyback Chronograph and a Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph, each showcasing the new technology in distinctive form.
TAG Heuer’s enduring pursuit of technical progress
Founded in 1860, TAG Heuer has always sought to balance avant-garde experimentation with robust sports watchmaking. While the brand is widely associated with motor racing and the Monaco’s cinematic legacy, it has also cultivated a reputation for pushing the boundaries of materials and chronometry. The Isograph project in 2019 hinted at the brand’s ambitions in the field of balance springs, though it was quietly withdrawn after production issues. The new TH-Carbonspring is both a continuation and a correction — a way for TAG Heuer to stake a serious claim in the territory traditionally dominated by Swiss giants such as Rolex with Parachrom or the Swatch Group with its silicon technologies. This launch signals that TAG Heuer aims not only to be a stylistic powerhouse but also a genuine manufacture of substance.
Inside the Monaco and Carrera: materials meet mechanics
The first watch to house the TH-Carbonspring is the Monaco Flyback Chronograph, crafted in forged carbon with a 39 mm square case. Both case and dial adopt the same material, giving the watch a stealthy, unified aesthetic. Beneath the surface beats the in-house TH20-60 calibre, a COSC-certified automatic chronograph with flyback function, running at 4 Hz with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Limited to just 50 pieces, it will be available from December 2025 at a price of $18,000 USD.
Alongside it comes the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport, a 44 mm powerhouse in forged carbon with a titanium DLC caseback. The dial reveals a spiral motif — a subtle reference to the balance spring at its core. Its TH20-61 calibre pairs a tourbillon with a chronograph, certified by COSC, running at 4 Hz with 65 hours of reserve. Also limited to 50 examples, it will reach collectors in early 2026 at $43,000 USD. These are not mere cosmetic releases but highly focused showcases of a component that could reshape TAG Heuer’s technical credibility.
Who are these watches for?
Visually, both the Monaco and Carrera editions present a rugged, contemporary aesthetic. The forged carbon surfaces, sharp lines, and restrained color palette give them a distinctly modern character, far removed from nostalgic re-issues or dressier pieces. These are watches for collectors who value cutting-edge materials and exclusivity, but who also enjoy the practical reassurance of COSC certification and robust sports credentials. They speak to the enthusiast who wants a chronograph or tourbillon not only for its visual drama but also for what lies inside — a balance spring born of carbon engineering rather than metallurgy or silicon wafers.
A calculated step toward the future
The TH-Carbonspring represents TAG Heuer’s determination to learn from past setbacks and push forward with conviction. Backed by nearly a decade of R&D and several patents, the technology demonstrates that TAG Heuer is ready to compete in the conversation about the future of regulating organs in mechanical watches. By anchoring this innovation in two limited-edition models, the brand ensures that its most passionate followers will be the first to experience it, while setting the stage for a broader rollout in years to come.
At $18,000 USD for the Monaco Flyback and $43,000 USD for the Carrera Tourbillon, these watches are positioned firmly at the high end of TAG Heuer’s portfolio. Deliveries will begin in December 2025 and early 2026 respectively, each limited to 50 pieces worldwide. Whether these spirals eventually find their way into more accessible models will determine the real legacy of the TH-Carbonspring. For now, TAG Heuer has delivered an announcement that feels both daring and deliberate.
And honestly, as someone who has followed the brand’s journey through its highs and lows, it’s hard not to smile at the thought of TAG Heuer returning to the ring with such determination. If you are a chrono guy looking for ambitious timepieces, check out Bell & Ross’s BR-03 Chrono Rafale Solo Display and even Chronoswiss’ Opus Chronograph Purple Rain !
