There are watches, and then there are icons. In a landscape saturated with limited editions and ever-changing trends, a handful of models stand the test of time—not just as popular references but as cultural touchstones. These watches define eras, shape brands, and anchor collections. Understanding why they matter offers valuable insight into what truly lasts in horology.
Rolex Submariner 5513: The Tool Watch That Set the Standard
The Rolex Submariner 5513, produced from 1962 to 1989, remains one of the most recognizable dive watches in history. Typically priced between $12,000 and $20,000 on the vintage market, it embodies the rugged elegance that made Rolex a household name. Its matte dial, lack of date, and symmetrical layout contribute to a timeless aesthetic, while the robust Oyster case and in-house caliber ensured decades of reliability. Beloved by collectors for its minimalist purity and links to James Bond, the 5513 proves that functionality can be the foundation of enduring design. It is, in many ways, the archetype of the modern tool watch.
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch: Timekeeping Beyond Earth
When NASA approved the Omega Speedmaster Professional for spaceflight in the 1960s, it marked the beginning of one of horology’s most legendary careers. Still in production today with modern iterations, the classic hesalite Moonwatch retails around $6,600, maintaining a direct lineage to the model worn on the Moon. Its manual-wind caliber, lyre-lug case, and chronograph layout have become instantly recognizable, while its spacefaring legacy cements its cultural impact. More than a racing chronograph, the Speedmaster is a symbol of exploration and resilience. It’s the rare watch where the mythology is backed by solid, enduring watchmaking. If you are not an Omega fanboy, you just can’t ignore nor respect this Omega !
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402ST: The Birth of Luxury Sport
When Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak 5402ST in 1972, priced like a gold watch but made of steel, the industry was stunned. Designed by Gérald Genta in just one night, the watch broke conventions with its octagonal bezel, integrated bracelet, and ultra-thin profile. Today, early examples command over $100,000, but even modern versions retain the core DNA. Its finishing—both on the case and the tapisserie dial—redefined what sport watches could aspire to be. The Royal Oak didn’t just survive the Quartz Crisis; it turned AP into a contemporary powerhouse. This watch didn’t follow a trend—it created one. This Audemars Piguet came before – and created the hype of – the now much sought-after Nautilus from the brand that follows.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 96: The Essence of Elegance
Introduced in 1932, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 96 distilled dress watch design to its purest form. With a current vintage price range from $10,000 to $25,000, it’s less flashy than its peers but arguably more influential. Its slim round case, small seconds, and minimalist dial helped define mid-century elegance and became a template for countless imitations. Powered by manually wound in-house movements, the Ref. 96 emphasizes understated craftsmanship. It’s a quiet watch that whispers legacy and taste. For purists, this is horology’s answer to architectural minimalism and it’s everything we love about Patek.
Cartier Tank Louis: Parisian Heritage on the Wrist
Few watches embody design pedigree like the Cartier Tank Louis, a model born in 1917 and worn by icons from Jacqueline Kennedy to Andy Warhol. Priced today from around $10,000 depending on the variant, it combines Art Deco lines, Roman numerals, and a cabochon crown in a slim, refined package. Though powered by quartz in some versions, many Tank Louis models house manual mechanical movements, preserving Cartier’s watchmaking tradition. It’s less about specs and more about presence—few watches speak with such effortless authority. In the world of rectangular watches, the Tank reigns supreme.
Conclusion: Icons That Transcend Time
These five watches aren’t just legends—they’re case studies in how design, purpose, and cultural resonance converge. From the moon to the racetrack, from deep waters to Parisian salons, each one tells a story that’s still being written. Of course, many worthy candidates were left out—no list is definitive—but that’s part of the joy in collecting. Every enthusiast has their own pantheon. Whether you’re just starting your journey or refining your taste, exploring these timepieces is a lesson in enduring value. And perhaps a gentle reminder: great design never goes out of style. If you liked that article, you will probably love one of the 5 best GMT watches you can buy right now !
